Guru Nanak Sahib 548th Birth Anniversary Special: The best way to know the work of Guru Nanak is to be a traveller as He was. The learned author travels to the farthest corner of Central India in Omkareshwar, Madhya Pradesh, tracing the footsteps of Guru Nanak and shares with readers why Guru Sahib travelled there and what he preached.

Tracing the steps of Guru Nanak, my wife and I visited the historic Gurdwara Omkareshwar last month, travelling by road through the green rich hilly terrain and meeting Vanjara Sikh youth along the way at another small Gurdwara serving the majority Vanjara population there. Interestingly, one of the local Vanjaras was elected as a key member of a political party.

Wondering how Guru Nanak travelled to the remotest parts of the hinterland in India, walking on foot, we could only admire and bow to the spirit of the First Master. A location like Omkareshwar can be called as God’s wonder on earth. History tells us that Guru Sahib meditated on the banks of the river and through his Bani -hymns, told people about true meditation and the true meaning of Om.

I bowed my head to the Great Guru for all he did for saving humanity and giving the lessons of Truth all around the world!  Let me take you through the town and its residents recalling the way in which Guru Nanak met them and directed them to the True Path of God.

Omkareshwar is one of the most sacred towns situated on the Indore-Khandwa Highway in central India in the state of Madhya Pradesh. The holy town is at the confluence of rivers Narmada and Kaveri. This meeting point of the two most prominent rivers of India leaves the island in the shape of Hindu symbol Om, hence it is so named. The town has two ancient shrines-one is Omkareshwar (whose name means “Lord of Omkaara or the Lord of the Om Sound”) located in the island and Amareshwar (whose name means “Immortal Lord” or “Lord of the Immortals or Devas”) located on the south bank of Narmada River on the mainland. Omkareshwar temple situated on Mandhata island in river Narmada houses one of the 12 Jyotirlingas.

The dam on Narmada has increased the importance of the place and the religious centre has become a tourist attraction too. The water from this dam is diverted to Shipra River for Ujjain Mahakumbh and feed Indore.

Every Monday, the golden idol of Lord Omkar is shown to pilgrims and visitors amidst bands, drums, and the priests gathering in procession, after which they go to the river to complete their worship. Temple permits are required for photography. The entire area is bounded by mountains presenting a very beautiful view. The view around the island is also serene and relaxing.

In the tenth century AD, Parmar King Udayaditya installed 4 stone inscriptions here with some holy couplets of Shiv Mahima inscribed on these. The temple then came to be known as Amaleshwar Temple.  Thousands of visitors around the globe come here on Mahashivaratri to celebrate union with God. The place was ruled by Parmars followed by Bhils and Rajputs in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries during which period, the temples and the temple towns flourished.

In the fourteenth century, after Ghauri’s invasions, the rule passed on to Sultans. During this period, ancient temples and idols were destroyed. Mughals especially Aurangzeb caused further devastation. The remains of ancient temples and structures around Mandhata are spread around the adjoining hill. The new construction of temples came up close to Narmada.

During fairs and festivals like Mahashivratri, Diwali, Dussehra, Navratra and Vasant Panchami, the local people gather in large numbers here to celebrate. Most pilgrims and visitors are from nearby townships and cities like Indore, Khandwa, Ujjain and Dhar.

History tells us that during one such fair Guru Nanak Sahib visited this area in 1511 AD during his journeys –Udasis to south and reached here after visiting Ujjain Dharanagari (Dhar), Betma and Indore. During his visit Guru Nanak went to Omkareshwar and Amleshwar temples and held discussions with the pundits. He did not agree with them that the God as OM created the earth at this location. He explained them the actual meaning of Omkar as against the one depicted by them. His description is called Bani Dhakhni Ongkar and is found recorded in Guru Granth Sahib pages 929 to 938.

ਰਾਮਕਲੀ ਮਹਲਾ ੧ ਦਖਣੀ ਓਅੰਕਾਰੁ ੴ ਸਤਿਗੁਰ ਪ੍ਰਸਾਦਿ॥

ਓਅੰਕਾਰਿ ਬ੍ਰਹਮਾ ਉਤਪਤਿ ॥ ਓਅੰਕਾਰੁ ਕੀਆ ਜਿਨਿ ਚਿਤਿ ॥
ਓਅੰਕਾਰਿ ਸੈਲ ਜੁਗ ਭਏ ॥ ਓਅੰਕਾਰਿ ਬੇਦ ਨਿਰਮਏ ॥
ਓਅੰਕਾਰਿ ਸਬਦਿ ਉਧਰੇ ॥ ਓਅੰਕਾਰਿ ਗੁਰਮੁਖਿ ਤਰੇ ॥
ਓਨਮ ਅਖਰ ਸੁਣਹੁ ਬੀਚਾਰੁ ॥ ਓਨਮ ਅਖਰੁ ਤ੍ਰਿਭਵਣ ਸਾਰੁ ॥ ੧ ॥
ਸੁਣਿ ਪਾਡੇ ਕਿਆ ਲਿਖਹੁ ਜੰਜਾਲਾ ॥ ਲਿਖੁ ਰਾਮ ਨਾਮ ਗੁਰਮੁਖਿ ਗੋਪਾਲਾ ॥ ੧ ॥ ਰਹਾਉ ॥
ਸਸੈ ਸਭੁ ਜਗੁ ਸਹਜਿ ਉਪਾਇਆ ਤੀਨਿ ਭਵਨ ਇਕ ਜੋਤੀ ॥
ਗੁਰਮੁਖਿ ਵਸਤੁ ਪਰਾਪਤਿ ਹੋਵੈ ਚੁਣਿ ਲੈ ਮਾਣਕ ਮੋਤੀ ॥
ਸਮਝੈ ਸੂਝੈ ਪੜਿ ਪੜਿ ਬੂਝੈ ਅੰਤਿ ਨਿਰੰਤਰਿ ਸਾਚਾ ॥
ਗੁਰਮੁਖਿ ਦੇਖੈ ਸਾਚੁ ਸਮਾਲੇ ਬਿਨੁ ਸਾਚੇ ਜਗੁ ਕਾਚਾ ॥ ੨ ॥
ਧਧੈ ਧਰਮੁ ਧਰੇ ਧਰਮਾ ਪੁਰਿ ਗੁਣਕਾਰੀ ਮਨੁ ਧੀਰਾ ॥
ਧਧੈ ਧੂਲਿ ਪੜੈ ਮੁਖਿ ਮਸਤਕਿ ਕੰਚਨ ਭਏ ਮਨੂਰਾ ॥
ਧਨੁ ਧਰਣੀਧਰੁ ਆਪਿ ਅਜੋਨੀ ਤੋਲਿ ਬੋਲਿ ਸਚੁ ਪੂਰਾ ॥
ਕਰਤੇ ਕੀ ਮਿਤਿ ਕਰਤਾ ਜਾਣੈ ਕੈ ਜਾਣੈ ਗੁਰੁ ਸੂਰਾ ॥ ੩ ॥……॥੫੪॥

Ramkali, First Mehl, Dakhani,  Ongkaar:  One Universal Creator God.

By The Grace Of The True Guru:  From Ongkaar,
The One Universal Creator God, Brahma was created.
He kept Ongkaar in his consciousness.
From Ongkaar, the mountains and the ages were created.
Ongkaar created the Vedas.
Ongkaar saves the world through the Shabad.
Ongkaar saves the Gurmukhs.
Listen to the Message of the Universal, Imperishable Creator Lord.
The Universal, Imperishable Creator Lord is the essence of the three worlds.  || 1 ||
Listen, O Pandit, O religious scholar, why are you writing about worldly debates? As Gurmukh, write only the Name of the Lord, the Lord of the World.  || 1 || Pause  ||  

Sassa:  He created the entire universe with ease; His One Light pervades the three worlds. Become Gurmukh, and obtain the real thing; gather the gems and pearls. If one understands, realizes and comprehends what he reads and studies, in the end he shall realize that the True Lord dwells deep within his nucleus. The Gurmukh sees and contemplates the True Lord; without the True Lord, the world is false.  || 2 ||  

Dhadha:  Those who enshrine Dharmic faith and dwell in the City of Dharma are worthy; their minds are steadfast and stable.  Dhadha:  If the dust of their feet touches one’s face and forehead, he is transformed from iron into gold. Blessed is the Support of the Earth; He Himself is not born; His measure and speech are perfect and True. Only the Creator Himself knows His own extent; He alone knows the Brave Guru.  || 3 ||   

The study of the first stanza of this Bani clearly indicates that Guru Nanak is discussing the philosophy of the Pundits of Omkar Temple. In rest of the Bani (from stanza 2 to 54 including Rahao (Pause) Guru Nanak is clearing the confusion of the Pundit about the nature and attributes of God.

Guru Nanak explained to the Pundit that there is no Trinity (Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva) of God to which the word, ‘Oankar’ or ‘Omkar’, is implied. Guru Nanak further explains to the Pundit that “God is One and the Only One’. He does not come into anthropomorphic form (Ajuni); and no specific/descriptive name can be coined for God since God is an ‘Eternal Entity’ and ineffable.

Guru Nanak is talking about the ancient concept being taught by the Pundit: The Idol of Shiva or Linga of Shiva is considered as Omkar by the Pundit of Omkar Temple. The Pundit also equates ‘Omkar’ to Om, which represents Trinity of God. Therefore, it is not the philosophy of Guru Nanak. So Omkar Bani was composed by Guru Nanak to explain to the Pundits of Omkar Temple that God cannot be represented as Omkar since it originated from Om.

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A Gurdwara was constructed to commemorate Guru Nanak’s visit just opposite the Omkareshwar temple on Narmada Ghat itself. A new bridge connecting the southern other bank of the river has been constructed. There is only one permanent resident Iqbal Singh Khera having a grocery shop in Omkareshwar. The Granthi and sewadar are from local Sikh community of Vanjaras who have large population in this area and occasionally visit the Gurdwara. During main Gurpurabs, especially from 1-3 April, the sangat of Indore, Ujjain, Betma and Mhow comes in large number under the banner of Sukhmani Sahib Sewa Society. To meet the requirement of accommodating large numbers Giani Sant Singh Maskeen who had been regularly coming to these occasions, was the key in getting the new building constructed. Now S Ranjit Singh Gauhar regularly performs these functions. To accommodate the sangat, a 16 room  inn (sarai) has been constructed in the city.